Tudor has unveiled a modern iteration of its Northflag watch, a model first introduced in 2015 and later retired in 2021. This refreshed version, now named the Northflag GMT, incorporates a practical dual-time zone feature, building upon its distinctive 1970s aesthetic. The original Northflag was notable for being Tudor's first watch to house a manufacture movement visible through a display case back. This new release continues that legacy, marrying historical design influences with contemporary watchmaking advancements, presenting a timepiece that was once considered undervalued and now returns with enhanced functionality.
The fundamental design ethos of the Northflag GMT remains consistent with its predecessor, drawing inspiration from the vintage Ranger II. This includes a distinctive tonneau-shaped case, a prominent bezel, and an integrated metal bracelet characterized by its robust links and angular contours. While maintaining these core design elements, Tudor has subtly refined the watch's dimensions for improved wearability. The case diameter remains 40mm, but the thickness has been reduced to 12.7mm from the original 13.4mm, and the lug-to-lug distance is now 48.8mm, down from 50mm. The crown features a more traditional screw-down design, and sapphire crystals protect both the front and back, ensuring a comfortable 100m water resistance. A key visual update is the fixed, angled bezel, which is now thinner and lacks the contrasting black ring of the earlier model, contributing to a sleeker profile enhanced by a box-shaped sapphire crystal.
The dial of the Northflag GMT maintains its high-contrast black finish, accented with white and yellow details. The hour markers and numerals are crafted from monobloc ceramic with luminous material, ensuring excellent legibility. A significant change is the removal of the power reserve indicator, making way for the new and highly functional GMT display. This is a true GMT function, consistent with Tudor's standards, complemented by an inner flange that features a fixed 24-hour scale. These adjustments result in a dial that appears sharper and more defined, offering enhanced clarity despite incorporating additional complications.
Powering the new Northflag GMT is the Master Chronometer-certified calibre MT5652-U, manufactured by Kenissi, Tudor's production partner. This robust mechanical movement is shared across several other Tudor GMT models, including the Pelagos FXD Zulu Time, Black Bay Pro, and Black Bay GMT. It operates at a frequency of 4Hz, providing a substantial 65-hour power reserve. Equipped with a silicon hairspring, the movement boasts impressive precision and resistance to magnetic fields, and its intricate workings are elegantly showcased through the sapphire exhibition case back.
The timepiece is fitted with an integrated-style steel bracelet, featuring H-shaped links that are entirely brushed for a utilitarian yet refined appearance. This bracelet is secured with Tudor's T-Fit rapid adjustment clasp, offering convenient sizing. The Tudor Northflag GMT is exclusively available through authorized Tudor boutiques and is priced at CHF 4,500 or EUR 5,050.
The re-launch of the Northflag GMT demonstrates Tudor's dedication to evolving its classic designs while integrating advanced horological technology. This model not only revives a distinct aesthetic but also enhances its utility, making it a compelling option for enthusiasts seeking a blend of historical charm and modern performance. The careful refinements in case dimensions and the upgrade to a Master Chronometer-certified movement underscore Tudor's commitment to quality and innovation.
