Marni's New Direction Under Meryll Rogge

Marni, under the fresh guidance of creative director Meryll Rogge, has embarked on a fascinating journey back to its foundational principles, blending the brand's minimalist beginnings with a bold, contemporary vision. Rogge's inaugural collection serves as a testament to Marni's enduring spirit of individuality and artistic expression, offering an invigorating alternative to the prevailing trends in the fashion landscape. This new chapter not only honors the legacy of Marni's founder, Consuelo Castiglioni, but also propels the brand into an exciting future defined by wit, eccentricity, and a profound appreciation for culture beyond mere clothing.

Rogge's designs resonate with a distinct energy, appealing to those who embrace unconventional style and curate their wardrobes with a discerning eye. Her work at Marni underscores a commitment to crafting garments that celebrate self-expression and fearless elegance, challenging the industry's focus on basic staples. By reinterpreting Marni's historical elements through her unique lens, Rogge ensures the brand continues to be a haven for individuals who see fashion as an extension of their artistic and cultural identities.

Marni's Evolution: From Minimalism to Eclectic Maximalism

Marni, initially conceived in 1994, began with a minimalist ethos, characterized by clean lines and a restricted color palette of neutrals. This foundational phase, unearthed by Meryll Rogge from an archival hard drive, stands in stark contrast to the maximalist aesthetic—vibrant prints, voluminous forms, and abstract patterns—that later defined the brand under Consuelo Castiglioni and subsequent creative director Francesco Risso. Risso, who led Marni from 2016 to 2025, further pushed creative boundaries, transforming everyday materials into avant-garde, sculptural runway pieces. Rogge’s current direction seeks to reconcile these two poles, bridging Marni's origins with its later, more flamboyant identity, and charting a new course that respects both its past and future.

The brand, founded by Consuelo Castiglioni, gradually gained acclaim for its unique graphic patterns, distinctly glamorous silhouettes, and vivid color schemes that became its signature. Francesco Risso, during his tenure, elevated Marni's creative expression, introducing fantastical runway ensembles that ingeniously repurposed found objects and unusual fabrics into wearable art. Rogge’s recent show in Milan signals a return to Castiglioni’s initial concepts regarding Marni’s identity and purpose, yet reimagined through her contemporary perspective. Her collection presented an intriguing synthesis, commencing with a look that nodded to the brand's earlier, more understated period, albeit executed with Rogge’s distinctive flair—a plush white goat leather coat, a brown t-shirt featuring a subtle logo and unique cut-outs, and a black skirt adorned with large paillette sequins. A vibrant red belt served as the sole splash of color, meticulously designed to echo Castiglioni’s very first print: a delicate red poppy motif.

Meryll Rogge's Vision: Redefining Marni's Independent Spirit

Meryll Rogge's debut collection for Marni in Milan presented a fresh, rebellious aesthetic that felt distinct and modern. Her designs cater to individuals who confidently pair unconventional pieces, such as quirky sweaters with witchy lace-up kitten heels and slouchy colored socks, embodying a sense of swagger and a curatorial eye for unique style. Rogge, who continues to produce her own eponymous collection and has a background working with designers like Marc Jacobs and Dries Van Noten, brings a vision infused with wit and idiosyncratic elements. Her Marni collection showcased sporty, eccentric, and textured garments, from a butter yellow windbreaker dress with drawstring pockets to a fisherman-style knit vest layered over a plaid shirt with bloomers, and a green leather pencil skirt fastened with a silver clasp, paired with a lavender top featuring visible "industrial stitching."

In a fashion landscape often dominated by "wardrobe staples," AI-generated outfit ideas, and luxury basics, Rogge's Marni collection offers a vibrant and energetic alternative. As Rogge herself noted backstage, "The Marni spirit is very particular. It is an independent character. There is a bold elegance, a sense of self. It is for people interested in the arts and culture—it's broader than just fashion." This philosophy underscores Marni's consistent core identity over the past three decades, regardless of who has been at the creative helm. Rogge’s collection masterfully channeled this spirit, infusing her own blend of sportiness, eccentricity, and tactile richness into the brand’s distinct DNA. Her ability to synthesize Marni’s heritage with her modern, playful approach ensures that the brand remains relevant and captivating for those who seek fashion as a means of artistic and personal expression, challenging conventional norms and celebrating individuality in every stitc