Renowned author Chang-rae Lee has generously unveiled his intimate guide to Umbria, Italy, a region he now cherishes as his adopted homeland. His journey began with an inspiring residency at the prestigious Civitella Ranieri arts foundation, leading him and his wife to acquire a charming farm estate in northern Umbria. They were captivated by the region's tranquil rhythm and breathtaking scenery, embarking on a continuous endeavor to restore their property and cultivate its extensive olive groves. This personal account offers a window into the authentic Umbrian lifestyle, highlighting experiences that transcend typical tourist attractions.
Discovering the Enchantment of Umbria: A Connoisseur's Itinerary
Chang-rae Lee's love affair with Umbria blossomed after an enriching period at the esteemed Civitella Ranieri arts foundation, nestled in the picturesque hills above Umbertide. This experience, coupled with years of enjoyable Italian sojourns, culminated in the purchase of a quaint former farm in northern Umbria during late 2019. The couple, who had long harbored dreams of such a move, was finally prompted to action by their Civitella Ranieri residency. They have since savored the serene existence and magnificent panoramas, dedicating their summers to revitalizing their property and nurturing its productive olive groves.
While his literary works have yet to feature this enchanting region, Lee found inspiration within the cool, ancient stone walls of his Umbrian home, completing two novels there, including the recently published "A Tender Age." His deep immersion in the Alto Tevere, the Upper Tiber River Valley, has provided a wealth of local knowledge, which he now shares for fellow travelers:
- Gastronomic Delights: For culinary enthusiasts, particularly those fond of black summer truffles, Lee recommends two exceptional eateries. "Da Baffone," perched in the hills above the medieval town of Gubbio, and the more accessible "Osteria del Boccajolo" in Umbertide, are renowned for their lavish servings of truffle shavings over handmade tagliatelle, scrambled eggs, and even steak.
- Elegant Stays: Friends of Lee's have enjoyed various accommodations in the region. "Nikis Resort," near Preggio, stands out for its refined blend of modern Italian and Scandinavian design. For a more luxurious, 'borgo-like' experience, akin to residing in a designer noble's private domain, "Vocabolo Moscatelli" and the "Reschio hotel" are top recommendations, with Villa Reschio even boasting an equestrian center.
- Morning Brews: Umbria abounds with charming bars and cafés for a robust espresso. Lee particularly enjoys "Caffe Centrale" in Umbertide's main piazza, especially on bustling market days (Wednesdays and Saturdays), when vendors offer an array of fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and unique vintage finds.
- Street Food Must-Try: On market days, visitors should seek out the "Blasi family porchetta truck" for their sublime fennel-seasoned pork roast. Lee suggests ordering the "panino misto," a sandwich featuring a mix of light and dark meats with crispy rind, an unparalleled four-euro indulgence.
- Artistic Journeys: Just beyond Umbria's border in Tuscany, the towns of Monterchi and Sansepolcro house some of Piero della Francesca's most celebrated Renaissance masterpieces. Lee highlights the profound impact of "Madonna del Parto" in Monterchi, a work of exquisite beauty. Monterchi also offers a unique "Museum of Scales and Weights."
- Aquatic Adventures: Despite being landlocked, Umbria offers water-based recreation at "Lago Trasimeno," one of Italy's largest lakes. From Passignano sul Trasimeno, a ferry transports visitors to "Isola Maggiore," home to a medieval village and a delightful restaurant.
- Coastal Escapes: For a day at the beach, a two-hour drive eastward leads to the Adriatic Sea. Lee favors the classic beach clubs in Portonovo, with its charming coved beaches. Renting beds and umbrellas and dining at establishments like "Ristorante Emilia," known for its traditional clam and chickpea sauce pasta, provides a quintessential Italian beach experience, though July and August can be crowded.
- Architectural Wonders: "Gubbio" is celebrated as one of Italy's most remarkably preserved medieval towns, featuring a ducal palace, a grand duomo, and a Roman-era forum that still hosts concerts. A cable car ride to the summit of Monte Ingino offers spectacular valley views.
- Hidden Culinary Gem: "Da Fulvio," situated just outside Gubbio's center, is a local favorite consistently bustling with diners. Its homestyle casalinga cuisine, wafer-thin pizzas, and expertly grilled aged steaks cooked over an open wood fire are highly recommended.
- Travel Hub: "Perugia airport" (PEG) serves as a regional gateway, with carriers like Ryanair offering flights to various Italian destinations, including Sardinia and Sicily, as well as direct routes to major European cities such such as Barcelona, Brussels, and London.
- Charming Tourist Stop: "Solomeo," the clothing designer Brunello Cucinelli's meticulously restored village, is a delightful visit. While it possesses a somewhat polished, almost 'Disney-like' quality, it also features a Cucinelli outlet with occasional sales.
- Vibrant Local Festivities: During the summer, nearly every Umbrian town hosts a traditional "sagre," a public celebration of local customs, often centered around specialty foods like mushrooms or cinghiale (wild boar). The "Festa dei Barberi" (Festival of the Barbarians) in Castel Rigone is particularly lively, with villagers in period costumes, wine dispensed from backpack sprayers by bare-chested men, hearty dishes, and an all-night revelry.
- Wine Country Immersion: Montefalco, to the south, is the heart of Umbrian wine country, famed for its robust Sagrantino grape-based red wines. Numerous wine routes lead to both large and small producers. Closer to Umbertide, "Chiesa del Carmine" offers an award-winning winery and agriturismo amidst a beautiful valley.
- Optimal Visiting Times: While autumn is generally ideal, spring and early summer are recommended to fully appreciate Umbria's renowned lush greenery.
- Getting Around: A car is indispensable for exploring Umbria's charming countryside and secluded hilltop villages, though trains connect most major towns.
Chang-rae Lee's personal insights provide a rich tapestry of experiences, inviting travelers to delve deeper into the heart of Umbria, beyond conventional tourist paths. His appreciation for the local culture, cuisine, and breathtaking landscapes shines through, inspiring an authentic exploration of this Italian gem.
