A Legacy Reborn: The Return of an Icon
Hublot's Evolving Identity: From Disruptor to Luxury Powerhouse
For a new generation of watch enthusiasts, Hublot primarily signifies bold and striking designs, epitomized by the success of the Big Bang collection launched in 2005 by the renowned marketing visionary Jean-Claude Biver. This line catapulted the brand to widespread recognition.
The Original Vision: Carlo Crocco's Groundbreaking 1980 Creation
However, seasoned watch connoisseurs recall a different Hublot—the singular model introduced in 1980 by Italian entrepreneur Carlo Crocco's MDM brand. This watch was as revolutionary in its time as the Big Bang, albeit in a distinctly understated manner.
A Bold Combination: The Porthole Watch's Unconventional Design
Named for its distinctive porthole aesthetic, the original Hublot caused a stir in the luxury watch world. It controversially paired a gold case with a rubber strap and featured a minimalist, all-black dial, using only 12 bezel screws as hour markers instead of traditional numerals or indices.
Royal Endorsement: The Watch's Unexpected Rise to Prominence
Despite its unconventional design and high price, the watch's success was not initially guaranteed. Its fortunes shifted dramatically when King Constantine of Greece, a yachting enthusiast, saw an advertisement for the Hublot in Time magazine, depicting it against a dramatic seascape. He promptly purchased two, one for himself and one for his brother-in-law, King Juan Carlos of Spain. This royal patronage opened the floodgates, leading to the watch being embraced by an array of VIPs, including fashion icon Giorgio Armani, Queen Noor of Jordan, F1 driver Jacques Lafitte, and cultural figures like Elton John, Andy Warhol, and Eddie Murphy.
Reimagining a Classic: The Genesis of the Classic Fusion Tributo
Today, Hublot, having adopted its name from this initial successful model, seeks to rekindle the spirit of the 1980s with the launch of the new Classic Fusion Tributo, a direct descendant of Crocco's original design.
Modern Enhancements: Bridging Heritage with Contemporary Craftsmanship
While the 'Tributo' is a more faithful recreation than the Classic Fusion Original introduced in early 2023, it incorporates several significant updates to meet contemporary standards. Notably, the 38mm, seven-part case is 2mm larger and visibly thicker than the 1980 version. This increased size accommodates Hublot's in-house HUB 1711 automatic movement, a departure from the ultra-slim quartz mechanism of the original.
Refined Aesthetics: Subtle Design Adjustments for a New Era
To counteract the larger dimensions, the case's distinctive slope where it meets the strap has been made steeper. Additionally, subtle polishing techniques are employed to maintain a refined visual balance.
Evolved Materials: The Advanced Rubber Strap
The iconic rubber strap has also been upgraded. Gone is the natural rubber, famously infused with vanilla to mask its odor. The new 'Tributo' features a high-performance FKM (fluorocarbon rubber) strap, which offers enhanced strength and resilience while preserving the original's aesthetic.
User Experience: Practicality Meets Luxury
Unlike the original's elaborate in-store strap-fitting ceremony, the 'Tributo' comes with a more practical titanium deployant buckle, simplifying the ownership experience.
A Homage to the Past: Preserving the MDM Legacy
From a distance, distinguishing between the original and the new versions is challenging. The 'Tributo' even retains the MDM logo on its dial, now symbolizing "Main dans le Main," the humanitarian foundation established by Crocco in 1998.
Philanthropic Commitment: Supporting MDM through Sales
Hublot has pledged to donate CHF 100,000 from the proceeds of the 'Tributo' sales to Crocco's charity. The initial production run includes 400 pieces: 200 in white gold with onyx dials and 200 in yellow gold with matte black dials, each priced at $30,900.
The Founder's Reflection: Carlo Crocco on Enduring Appeal
Creative director Alessandro Camilli indicated that future production numbers would be demand-driven. At the Milan launch, Crocco, now 82, expressed his appreciation for the "homage" to his original creation, which he believes lost momentum primarily due to widespread imitation. He reminisced about the early days, recalling the watch's high price and unique appeal at the 1980 Basel watch show. Despite lacking market research, it successfully targeted high-end buyers, with production split evenly between men and women, never once given away. Crocco noted the exponential growth in the first five years, only to be challenged by a surge of copies and fakes. Nevertheless, he asserted his ability to distinguish a genuine Hublot from afar during his tenure.
