Ferdinand Berthoud introduces a remarkable evolution in its Chronomètre FB 3SPC collection with the debut of the FB 3SPC.4-1. This new iteration, presented at Geneva Watch Days, showcases a modern black ceramised titanium case, enhanced with innovative crown guards and a dynamic textile strap. It embodies the brand's dedication to upholding the historical chronometric precision of Ferdinand Berthoud, while pushing boundaries with contemporary materials and design, marking a significant advancement in high-end horology.
The FB 3 series was conceptualized to offer a more streamlined and approachable option for watch enthusiasts. While it foregoes the tourbillon and fusée-and-chain mechanisms found in some of its predecessors, the FB 3 incorporates a cylindrical hairspring. This intricate component, a hallmark of Ferdinand Berthoud's historical marine chronometers, features a helical design that ensures perfectly symmetrical expansion and contraction around its central axis. This characteristic is crucial for maximizing timekeeping accuracy by effectively mitigating the gravitational forces that can affect a watch's performance.
Miniaturizing such a specialized hairspring for a wristwatch format presented a formidable challenge. After an intensive three-year development period, the skilled watchmakers at Ferdinand Berthoud successfully engineered a regulating system that includes a variable-inertia balance and a cylindrical balance spring, both meticulously shaped by hand and featuring two terminal curves. A notable achievement for the FB 3 is its distinction as the sole wristwatch equipped with a helical hairspring and a variable-inertia balance to receive COSC Chronometry certification. Following earlier versions in white gold, rose gold, titanium, and platinum, this new FB 3SPC.4-1 model features a familiar 42.3mm case, now crafted from black ceramised titanium. This material choice offers a dark, sandblasted matte finish that is not only visually striking but also provides enhanced scratch resistance and the inherent lightness of titanium, lending the watch a distinct contemporary allure. Moreover, it is the first FB 3 model to incorporate sporty crown guards protecting the prominent 8.5mm crown, maintaining a 30-meter water resistance rating consistent with previous models.
The timepiece maintains its 9.43mm profile and features a domed sapphire crystal that covers both the dial and the exhibition caseback. The four lugs are securely fastened to the case middle. A unique rectangular porthole on the left side of the case allows for an intimate view of the pulsating cylindrical balance spring within.
At the core of the movement lies a German silver mainplate, treated with a black sandblasted finish, supporting six bridges on the front and ten on the reverse. Time indication is provided on a peripheral inner bezel ring, made of black varnished brass with gray numerals, complementing the small seconds sub-dial positioned at 6 o'clock. The hour and minute hands, crafted from white gold, are skeletonized, faceted, and sandblasted, featuring open tips for precise legibility.
The true spectacle of the watch is revealed through a generously sized aperture at 9 o'clock, where the regulating organ is gracefully suspended by three distinct bridges. At the uppermost position, a rectangular balance bridge secures the cylindrical balance spring, which oscillates captivatingly in open space. Below it, the anchor bridge is situated, followed by the escapement wheel bridge at the lowest point of this intricate display.
The movement exhibits exceptional artisanal finishing, with all 102 exterior angles and 15 interior angles meticulously hand-finished. The six bridges visible on the dial feature a vertical satin finish, a testament to the artisan's skill in ensuring perfect alignment of all lines. A prominent arched bridge at the 12 o'clock position holds the large barrel, which provides a 72-hour power reserve. A power reserve indicator is discreetly integrated at 2:30. To prevent overwinding, the mainspring barrel is equipped with a slipping device. The reverse side offers an alternative perspective of the 34mm x 6.84mm calibre FB-SPC, showcasing the underside of the hairspring, ten individual bridges, and flawless hand-finishing, incorporating eight different decorative techniques throughout the movement.
This horological masterpiece is paired with a modern fabric strap, secured by a titanium pin buckle. Customization options are available, including alternative strap materials, such as a light blue textile strap, and a titanium folding clasp, upon request. Pricing details are available upon inquiry. This creation stands as a testament to Ferdinand Berthoud's unwavering commitment to horological excellence, blending heritage with modern innovation in a truly compelling manner.
